Gothic & Lolita Bible #9
Here we have a very early edition of our favorite Lolita magazine, published in Spring 2003 (13 years ago, wow!). Lolita fashion sure has changed in so little time. Although, I suppose 13 years isn’t so small a different. Weird how that works. I particularly like the cover of this volume because of the artwork by Macoto Takahashi. I own an artbook of his and it is one of my favorites.
I think the most useful pattern in this edition is the Innocent World apron, which you have seen me put together a few times now. It’s one of my favorites, and quite a popular seller in my Etsy shop. Originally, that apron sold for about $82. It’s actually the whole reason I hunted down this edition of GLB – a friend requested the Innocent World style apron, and I found the pattern in here.
The other patterns are less relevant to today, I feel, but maybe you might find them useful for interesting.
- Neck tie by Angelic Pretty
- Apron by Innocent World
- Neck tie by MA
- (Not so flattering) Skirt by MAM
- Cutsew Tank Top by Black Peace Now
- Arm bandages by Elements
- Gauze long dress by Gotick Decoration
- Headdress by Gotick Decoration
- Earrings & Rosary Necklace (tutorial) by Choco Chip Cookie
Gothic & Lolita Bible #56
- Tote Bag, Drink Me Hair Ornament (Angelic Pretty)
- “Queen of Hearts” boned high waist skirt (Elements,H)
- Magical Heart Alice Apron – (Mam Maxicimam)
I took the time to digitize one of the patterns in this volume, for a sew along for the Lolita Fashion sewing groups I’m involved in on Facebook. This time I chose the Magical Heart Apron, to practice my new digitizing skills. It came out perfectly. It’s a bit time consuming, but totally worth it to be able to share accurate patterns with the interwebs and with ladies who may not be able to access the patterns found in these beautiful full color magazines from Japan.
The files are uploaded to Dropbox. Enjoy!
For this Xmas issue, they did a tribute to a turn-of-the-century American illustrator named Ellen Clapsaddle, and use printed panels of her illustrations on fabric. It appears to be a limited edition printed fabric that was never available in the West, I assume. However, you should be able to find similar printed panel fabric at your local quilt shop.
The patterns are simple, and designed around the small panel prints. The book cover pattern utilizes the size of the panel the best. Then there’s a tote, and an apron, both of relatively simple designs to make them unspectacular. There’s a simple JSK pattern that might be nice here, by Innocent World again. Same idea, and fits well if you’re a small. I wish these things came in bigger sizes.
This issue was actually a pretty nice one. I haven’t attempted the OP yet, but I want to! I did make the Laceup vest once, for a friend. I think she liked it. ^.^0 I think the best patterns in this edition are the vests and the OP, without question. The apron is another nice addition, not your typical Alice style, but more of a realistic Victorian length (If you’re a Lolita into longer skirts, of course.)
Google updated their translation app to include a drawing feature. It recognizes my crazy attempts at kanji! So I’m able to roughly translate the names of the patterns here for you. Yay!
Zig Zag – Side Laceup Vest
Zig Zag – Double Vest (Daburu Besuto)
- Rosa Bianca – Ribbon Princess JSK
- corgi corgi – Round Headdress
- Hexenhaus – Miss Cake hat
- Traumerei – Heart Rosetta
- moon afternoon – Dobby Weave Tablier (Apron)
So I got all excited last week when a new (enormous!) shipment arrived at my studio. A brand new industrial sewing machine, a Juki DDL-8700. Holy hell, this thing is fast! It boggles the mind. It makes ruffles with a gathering foot like magic! o.O
Pattern: GLB no.9 (2003) – Innocent World Apron
Okay, okay, I have to calm down again. But wow, is this the best investment I ever made! So I thought I’d start out practicing to use it by making something simple. I had this pattern out already and some extra white fabric lying around, and thought I’d try to make three of them as fast as I could.
Before applying lace and trims, I put together three apron skirts in four minutes or less. I didn’t even think about it.
I used a temporary adhesive to lay down the net lace and trim, usually used for quilting, I believe. It washes out. It sure makes it easier to sew trim on when it stays put (for the most part). And now with this new machine that goes 5500 stitches per minute (before it was 850 on my little Brother CE8080 – heh) I applied the whole border on the skirt, three lines of stitches, in no time flat.
Sure, it’s a little old-fashioned as far as Lolita goes. But if I recall correctly, Innocent World has been producing this exact same pattern for many years after it appeared in the August 2003 issue of Gothic Lolita Bible. I describe it as a “play apron”, the kind that children (like our dear Alice) would wear to play outside so they didn’t dirty their sweet dresses up too much.
It’s one size and I’ll be adding two button holes on each shoulder strap in the back to make it adjustable for those of us of different height. The pattern suggests putting buttons their instead, which I did the first time I made this apron. Turned out it made the shoulder straps too long for the little person I was making it for – so it makes more sense to put button holes there instead and have the buttons on the waist band.
I will have three of these for sale soon. 🙂
So, while I’m happy to trace all these patterns for everyone, once in a while I feel the need – the need to sew. So I traced a pattern for myself (I have some pending orders for patterns, and I promise I’ll get to them) which was the Innocent World Apron found in Gothic and Lolita Bible Vol. 9 . . .
I was actually inspired to do this one because of my friend. I have a young Lolita friend that I’m somewhat of a mentor to, and she mentioned how she wanted Innocent World’s Apron. It’s a play apron, reminiscent of the kind children would wear out in the garden during late Victorian times or turn of the century.
Either the apron was sold out or it was just too expensive to justify. A little research, though, and I found that exact apron pattern in one of the back issues of GLB. I didn’t have Vol. 9 – so I ordered it from eBay for about $20 bucks. In looking at the rest of the patterns, the apron really seems like the best prize. I want to make it a Xmas gift, so I decided to set to work this weekend making this apron.
Traced the pattern – sometimes when I trace for myself, I get lazy about transferring all the alignment markings, since I always have the pattern to refer to again, which I did. heh…
The panels for the skirt – two back, one center front cut on fold. Sewn and overlocked (I loves me mah overlock machine).
The belt of the apron. This bit was a little confusing. Since my reading of Japanese is a little slow, with much reference through dictionaries and translators, I eventually figured out that this piece of the pattern had written on it: Placed/attached in front of/before the chest piece. And by doing this, I learned even more kanji. Yay, learning. ^.^0
Press everything! EVERYTHING! Your iron is your friend. This is the belt again. Here I only pressed in the seams for the ends, and then one side. The unpressed side is where I attached the skirt – right sides together! How many times do you hear that when sewing? Soooo many… it’s kinda like “righty tighty – lefty loosey” only not as catchy. And less annoying.
Here you can see my basting stitches in black. I already sewed the gathers in this picture, but I basted first to gather. I DO have a ruffler foot, which is awesome. But sometimes good ol’ hand stitching is best.
The skirt is attached to the unpressed edge of the belt piece. Note the lace edging around the hem – I added that before I gathered the skirt. Sometimes it’s easier to do those things before the skirt is gathered and attached to anything. NOT always true. The skirt is open in the back, so I didn’t need to match the ends of the lace or the hem itself.
The chest piece. The ruffled eyelet lace was attached first. I used some galloon lace and threaded 3/8” white double faced satin ribbon through it. The lace was flat at first, but I made the ribbon extra long and gathered it toward the middle. The decoration there can be any kind of ruffled lace – or no lace! – you want. ^^
The shoulder straps are pinned inwards, sandwiching the chest piece. Sew this first all the way to the ends, making an L shape when you’re done stitching. The last edge will be pressed first, with the shoulder ruffled attached, before it’s sewn closed.
The shoulder ruffle. I really thought this was going to be the hardest part! I have an 1/8” narrow hem foot which, as you can see, makes a super fine finished edge. Works great on cotton fabrics. Thought the curves of this ruffle were going to kill my confidence, but somehow I managed it. That little bit of weirdly folded edging gets tucked into the shoulder strap, so it’s okay that it looks like that. Mostly looking good!
More hand stitched basting and now it’s pinned to the markings on the shoulder strap.
Sew and press!
The top part gets attached to the skirt. This time, wrong sides together. That little bit at the bottom of the chest piece with the shoulder straps on either side – it gets tucked into the bottom edge of the belt band. When it’s turned up (and pressed!), the belt part gets a top stitch on the bottom edge. This closes it. Then, with the belt laying flat along the bottom of the chest piece, another top stitch goes on the top edge.
The waist ties get a little tuck and are pushed into the openings of the belt band on either side, then stitched over with a top stitch.
I haven’t added the buttons or button holes yet, but I just couldn’t wait to show you guys my latest project. Hope you’ll forgive me! ^.^ Not bad though, huh?
Edit: A finished product!